THE ALMANAC - MARCH

LAWNS 
1. Check that electric and petrol-powered mowers are in good working order.
2. Mow the grass if the weather is mild enough and the lawn shows signs of growth. Ensure the first cut of the season is light, raising the blades 0.5cm (0.25in) higher than the usual cutting height.
3. Turf can be laid, provided the soil is not too wet or frozen. Work from planks, to avoid compacting the soil.
4. Newly turfed areas can be mown with the blades set to the highest setting, as soon as the grass reaches 5cm (2in) in height.
5. Where lawns are to be grown from seed, prepare the ground for sowing by cultivating, levelling and then firming the soil. Doing this now will allow the soil to settle prior to sowing later in the month, or in April. 
6. In late March apply a high nitrogen spring/summer lawn fertiliser to encourage good, strong growth to help the lawn recover after the winter.

VEGETABLES 
1. Cultivate and prepare seedbeds, covering them with clear polythene or fleece to warm up the soil before sowing.
2. Many vegetable crops can be sown this month, especially in mild areas with light soil, including: broad beans, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, bulb onions, lettuces, radish, peas, spinach, summer cabbage, salad leaves, leeks, Swiss chard, kohl rabi, turnip and summer cauliflower. Be guided by the weather, and sow only if conditions are suitable (as per guidance on the seed packets).
3. Chit early and maincrop potatoes. In mild regions, earlies are planted out in the second half of the month. In colder regions, it is better to wait until April.
4. You could prepare your runner bean supports and trenches for sowing (in May) or planting out (in June). This will save you time later.
5. Celery trenches can also be prepared, but for planting very soon (depending on the weather in your area). Plenty of organic matter, traditionally well-rotted manure, is key to improving both water retention and drainage simultaneously, and in helping to ensure the success of the crop.
6. Start regular hoeing, to keep annual weeds under control. Deal with perennial weeds as appropriate, either digging them out or using weed killer.

GREENHOUSE
1. At the beginning of the month prune back stems on pot-grown overwintered fuchsias, and place them in a well-lit, warm spot to re-shoot. Re-pot them in fresh compost if necessary, and start feeding six to eight weeks later (or immediately if in old compost).
2. Deadhead Hippeastrum (amaryllis), leaving the flower stalk(s) to die down naturally. Keep feeding and watering, and you may be treated to further flowers in August, as well as the normal blooms next winter.
3. Citrus trees in pots should be top-dressed with fresh compost, and/or re-potted if necessary.
4. Start cannas into growth by potting up the dormant rhizomes at 16°C (61°F) in a light position. Water them sparingly at first, increasing irrigation as growth develops, and potting on when necessary.
5. Begonia, Gloxinia and Achimenes tubers can still be planted this month. Begonias and gloxinias need to be planted hollow-side upwards; Achimenes can be planted on their sides, in trays if necessary, before potting them on as necessary once growth appears.
6. On warm days, open vents and doors of greenhouses to reduce humidity and help prevent disease.

TREES AND SHRUBS
1. Continue to plant deciduous hedging plants, shrubs, trees and climbers. Stakes and rabbit guards should be put in place at the time of planting trees, to prevent damage to the rootball or bark.
2. Towards the end of the month, you can plant evergreen shrubs and trees left unplanted since the autumn.
3. Feed trees, shrubs and hedges with a balanced fertiliser (such as Growmore or blood, fish and bone), sprinkling it over the root area before hoeing into the soil surface. This will particularly benefit young, weak, damaged or heavily pruned plants.
4. Many summer or late-summer flowering deciduous shrubs can be pruned between January and March. Examples include Buddleja davidii, Caryopteris clandonensis, Ceratostigma, Hydrangea paniculata, Leycesteria, Lavatera, Perovskia, hardy fuchsia, and deciduous Ceanothus species.
5. Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs until after they have flowered, otherwise this year's display will be lost.
6. Do not prune slightly tender evergreen shrubs (such as Choisya, best left until April), but do tackle hardier examples (such as Prunus laurocerasus, the cherry laurel), if necessary.

ROSES
1. This is the best month for planting roses in heavy soils or in cold areas. Avoid planting in areas where roses were previously grown, otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant disease.
2. Prune established bush and standard roses as they start growing but before any leaves unfurl.
3. Roses will benefit from feeding with a granular rose fertiliser as they come into growth.
4. Check tree ties and stakes. Replace, tighten or slacken them where necessary.
5. Give a combined Pest and Disease spray  as soon as the foliage has unfurled and providing the day is mild and still .
6. Keep the soil clean from weed and moss.

PERENNIALS
1. Early spring is an ideal time to plant herbaceous perennials, including Geranium, Astrantia and Oriental poppies. Check that the plants you buy have strong, green shoots and plant them into well-prepared soil.
2. Sweet peas can be sown outside this month in milder areas. Fleece covering can be used to raise the temperature and encourage seedling growth, or they can be started off in pots in a cold frame. Some varieties need chitting (nicking of the seed coat), and/or soaking, in order to germinate.
3. Place autumn-sown sweet peas in a sunny position, perhaps on a high shelf in the greenhouse that gets plenty of light.
4. Divide and/or plant bulbs-in-the-green, such as snowdrops (Galanthus) and winter aconites (Eranthis hyemalis), if not done last month.
5. Cut back ornamental grasses and other perennials left for winter interest, if you have not already done so. Even if they still look good, you need to make way for the new growth.
6. Divide hostas before they come into leaf.