THE ALMANAC - OCTOBER

LAWNS 
1. In many colder areas, this month is the last opportunity to scarify, aerate and top dress lawns. Scarification removes layers of thatch and can be done with either a spring-tine rake or a powered scarifyer.
2. Afterwards apply an autumn lawn feed; these are low in nitrogen, so discouraging lush green growth that would only succumb to cold and diseases over the winter months.
3. This is definitely your last chance to sow grass seed in mild areas of the UK. Cover newly sown areas with clear polythene to protect them from cold or fierce rain, if these are forecast in your area. Light to moderate rain will aid germination.
4. Rake fallen leaves off lawns before they block out light and air penetration to the grass. On large lawns a leaf-blower will make the job much easier, but only powerful models are capable of shifting leaves from damp lawns.
5. This is the last chance to mow recently sown grass areas, to neaten them up before the winter. Don't cut lower than 2.5cm (1in). Topping with the mower will also prevent weeds getting out of hand.
6. To assist walking over lawns plagued with worm casts or muddy areas, consider laying paths or stepping-stones across main routes of access, so that the lawn is not spoiled by treading in the winter weather.

VEGETABLES 
1. Pick the last of the remaining runner beans. Any really late and stringy ones are better composted than eaten.
2. Dig up outdoor tomato plants and hang them upside-down in the greenhouse to allow the fruit to ripen. Any that don't ripen can be used green in chutneys.
3. Finish planting autumn onion sets for a crop in early to mid-summer next year.
4. Garlic can still be planted in mild areas having free-draining soil. Otherwise it can be started in containers or modules, and planted out when more mature.
5. October is a good time for digging over vacant areas of the vegetable plot, as the approaching cold weather may help to improve the soil structure by breaking down large clumps into crumbly particles. After digging, any vacant ground can be covered with black polythene to prevent re-colonisation by weeds, or smearing of the surface structure by rain-splash (this is known as 'capping').
6. Remove all plant debris from the vegetable patch or allotment, to reduce the spread and the overwintering of disease and pests.

GREENHOUSE
1. Pot up prepared hyacinth bulbs if not done last month. This way you will have them flowering for Christmas or New Year.
2. Plant up containers with Hippeastrum (amaryllis) bulbs for a New Year display.
3. Sweet peas can be sown early, in the glasshouse, for next spring.
4. Remove any shading paint applied earlier in the season, in order to maximise reducing light levels late in the season.
5. Clean the glasshouse if not done last month, to prevent pests and diseases from overwintering in nooks and crannies.
6. Greenhouses can be insulated using plastic bubble wrap. This will cut down the heating bills for the winter, but do make sure to attach the polythene in such a way as to minimise the amount of light blocked out by strips of tape etc, as the wrap itself will reduce light levels somewhat.

TREES AND SHRUBS
1. Shrubs normally pruned hard in the spring such as Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba, and Lavatera, can be cut back by half now, to prevent wind rock and to neaten their appearance.
2. If the weather is dry, keep watering early-flowering shrubs such as camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas, so that flower buds are initiated successfully for blooms next spring. Use recycled or stored rainwater wherever possible.
3. Check tree ties and stakes before winter gales cause damage.
4. Place fallen leaves on the compost heap or into separate pens for rotting down into leafmould. Shredding leaves first with a shredder or mower will help them break down quicker.
5. Last chance to trim deciduous hedges to keep them looking tidy over the winter.
6. Honey fungus toadstools begin to appear in late September and early October, indicating possible areas of infection. However, there are also many harmless, saprophytic fungi appearing at this time of year, living purely on dead material and pose no threat to garden plants. If the plants look healthy, then there is unlikely to be cause for concern.

ROSES
1. Prune bush roses now, if not done already, as reducing their height will prevent wind rock. These plants are generally shallow-rooted and can become loose in the soil if buffeted by strong winds.
2. Climbing roses should be pruned now if not done last month.
3. Check for rotten rose stakes and perished ties before the Winter.
4. Keep beds and borders clean of debris to reduce the risk of overwintering pest and disease.
5. Order any replacement bushes or climbers before the growers run out of certain varieties.

PERENNIALS
1. Wait for first frosts to hit dahlias and cannas before lifting the tubers or rhizomes. They may overwinter in the ground in warmer regions if covered with a protective layer of straw or bracken, but flowering may be late and/or poor next year.
2. Any remaining summer bedding plants struggling on in milder areas are best cleared and replaced, for a fresher display. They make excellent additions to the compost heap, but avoid composting diseased material.
3. Don't neglect hanging basket maintenance - a little deadheading, watering and feeding can keep them going until mid-autumn. Once they are past their best, then re-plant with spring-flowering bulbs, winter heathers, trailing ivies and spring bedding plants.
4. Plant wallflowers, forget-me-not, Bellis, Primula, Viola (including winter pansies) and other spring bedding plants in prepared ground or pots. Keep them well watered if no rain is forecast, using stored rain or recycled water wherever possible.
5. Continue to plant spring-flowering bulbs, but leave tulips until November.
6. Check any bulbs being forced in darkness. If they show signs of top growth and have a healthy root system when knocked out of the bowl, bring them into a cool, light room to induce flower.